China's leather industry is seriously polluted

The "Emission Standards for Water Pollutants in the Tannery and Fur Processing Industry" (GB30486-2013) issued by the Ministry of Environmental Protection sets strict limits on water pollution, monitoring procedures, and environmental impact assessments within the tanning and fur processing sectors. It also outlines the design and implementation of environmental protection facilities, which will take effect starting March 1, 2014.

Experts have described these standards as the most stringent ever introduced for the leather industry, marking a significant step forward in controlling toxic and harmful pollutants like heavy metals. To understand the background behind this new regulation and how it differs from previous standards, we spoke with Li Jie, a senior project manager at the Public Environmental Research Center.

Background

Heavy Pollution in the Leather Sector

"The introduction of these new standards comes at a critical time," said Li Jie when asked about the background of the regulation. China is the world's largest producer of leather goods, with its export value consistently ranking first in the light industry. However, the leather industry generates a massive amount of pollutants, with complex wastewater composition.

In 2009, the sector discharged approximately 138 million tons of wastewater, along with 30,000 tons of chemical oxygen demand (COD) and 7,300 tons of ammonia nitrogen. Chromium (trivalent chromium) emissions reached 6.72 tons. According to 2012 environmental statistics, total chromium emissions from the leather, fur, feather, and footwear industries amounted to around 74 tons—second only to other sectors and accounting for 39.2% of total industrial chromium emissions.

Li Jie pointed out that the concentration of production in certain regions leads to high levels of heavy metal emissions. Major leather production areas include Hebei, Zhejiang, Guangdong, Shandong, Fujian, Liaoning, and Henan. Among these, Henan, Guangdong, and Zhejiang contribute the highest levels of total chromium in industrial wastewater, with 80.4 tons emitted annually—accounting for 42.6% of the national total.

Moreover, current regulations are not effective in managing pollution. The existing wastewater discharge standard (GB8978-1996) applies broadly but fails to address the unique challenges of the leather industry. The emission limits are too lax, entry barriers are low, and the standard lacks specificity, making it difficult to enforce pollution control. For example, aside from COD and BOD5, no specific emission limits are set for other key indicators. Additionally, the existence of tertiary standards does not promote fair competition or help manage total regional pollution. It also overlooks important factors such as total nitrogen, which can lead to water eutrophication.

Finally, the government has introduced stricter environmental requirements for the leather industry. The "Guiding Opinions for the Twelfth Five-Year Plan" for the leather sector outlines eight development goals, including substantial progress in energy conservation and emission reduction. It aims to establish 5–8 centralized tanning bases in suitable regions and promote clean production technologies. Water recycling rates should increase by 10%, and major pollutant emissions, such as COD and ammonia-nitrogen, are expected to decrease by 8% and 10%, respectively. Wastewater discharge should also drop by 10%, with solid waste being treated harmlessly.

Key Changes

The new standards clearly define emission limits and take into account the specific characteristics of the leather industry. Most tanning processes are carried out under water conditions, leading to high water consumption. Wastewater from the preparation and finishing stages accounts for over 80% of total wastewater generated.

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