Like "Shen Nong tastes the hundred herbs", with the persistence of "I would rather try a thousand wrong, can't let one go", I will test the flowers and plants, melon skin and tree bark, and Huang Ronghua finally recovered. The traditional craftsmanship that has been lost recently - "grass dyeing", is now colorful
With those plants that are not rare, you can dye a piece of white silk into a colorful and colorful silk scarf. In the past few days, the "China's intangible cultural heritage production protection achievements exhibition" is being held in the Beijing Agricultural Exhibition Center. The demonstration of "grass dyeing" inheritor Huang Ronghua often makes the onlookers singular and eager to try.
Huang Ronghua uses the "cloud dyeing" technique in hand-dyed cloth: wet the white silk, wrinkle, squeeze, gather, put it into the net bag, bundle it into a cloth ball; at the same time burn a pot of water on the induction cooker, put Into the powder of mahogany, it will become a pot of "red soup" in a short time, and it will leave a faint woody fragrance. Then, keep the water temperature at 60 °C, put the ball into the water, soak for 20 minutes, then add alum in the water for coloring and fixing. In another ten minutes, remove the cloth ball, wash away the floating color, and unfold it - the hand is a red and white mixed scarf with soft smudge. He said that this color shade and color block arrangement can be managed. It depends on the method of bundling the ball: the surface of the ball is different from the internal density, and the penetration effect of the dye solution will be different.
There are also color schemes. Then cook a pot of fragrant "Yellow Soup", which is the dyeing liquid extracted from gardenia, and then re-bundle the silk scarf into a cloth ball. After another dyeing and fixing, it is like a sunset glow. The red and yellow scarves, which are smashed and exudes natural aroma, are unveiled in people's exclamations.
The audience eagerly divided up the remaining dye liquor. Someone had no bottles on hand and went to the trash bin to pick one.
Plants that can be used as dyes are everywhere
Listen to "Mr. Huang" to explain, everyone is interested. He said that many plants that can be seen everywhere can be used as "grass dyeing", such as tea, loofah leaves, bamboo leaves, winter jasmine, cassia seed, red yeast rice, onion skin, pomegranate skin, mangosteen shell, longan shell... many of them It is the husk that we use as garbage. If you mash them and cook them into dyed liquid, you can turn them into treasure.
Huang Ronghua said that the color of "grass dyeing" is extremely rich, the onion skin is bright yellow, the loofah leaves are dyed green, the pomegranate skin is dyed green, the black tea is dyed brown... and the same plant, with different help such as white lime or alum Dyeing agents, dyed on silk, cotton, hemp, cashmere and other different fabrics, the effect is different, such as mangosteen shell, can be dyed yellow, camel, army green, orange and other colors.
Such a magical "grass dyeing", the old ancestors have long used. The earliest written record of this process was Zhou Dynasty. At that time, a full-time bureaucrat responsible for printing and dyeing textiles was set up, called "dying people." A variety of plant dyes have been discovered during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. From the glyph of the word "dye", from water, from wood, from nine, it means extracting the dye from the vegetation and dyeing it several times with water - "nine" can be interpreted as multiple times.
Before 1860, all the clothes in China were dyed with plants, Yunjin, Shujin, Songjin and all the famous embroidery, all of which were all from natural dyes. In the Qing Dynasty, "Snow Embroidery Spectrum" classified the colors of traditional embroidery threads into nine categories: cyan, yellow, red, black, white, green, enamel, purple, and onion, and divided into 745 colors according to the depth.
Looking for color in my teens, who knows what?
With the influx of chemical dyes, this wonderful flower of "grass wood dyeing" quickly withered. Factories and workshops have switched to chemical dyes with low prices and simple dyeing processes. Bluegrass dyeing is currently the only "grass dyeing" that can be seen in Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan and other places, but most of them are semi-natural, because chemical additives are used in the last process. Blue calico has been popular in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. In recent years, there have been some signs of “recoveryâ€, but now more than 90% are dyed with chemical indigo. Huang Ronghua once visited Mr. Zhao Baorong, the ancient town of Tongxiang Kai dyeing workshop. According to the old gentleman, no natural dyes have been used for decades. Nanjing Yunjin Museum is a robes for the restoration of a Ming Dynasty emperor. It took two years to study dyeing to solve the problem of several dyes. It is more difficult to restore Songjin, because it is still unclear which natural dyes it uses. In a word, the traditional “grass dyeing†process has been almost lost.
In 1993, inspired by a dyeing and finishing expert in Taiwan, Huang Ronghua, 37, embarked on the road of “grass dyeing†research. He has almost no textual references and old artists, like “Shen Nong tastes grass†Then, groping a little bit. For flowers and plants, melon skins and leaf bark, Huang Ronghua experimented with the persistence of "I would rather try a thousand, can't let go one", try different ways with different dyeing methods and different fabrics. The staining effect, homemade color card archive. He extracted from the brown leaves to the yellow, extracted from the king flower to the yellow-green, extracted from the Cyclobalanopsis fruit to the gray, extracted from the mangosteen shell to the orange-red, extracted from the longan shell to the camel... Many friends and netizens know His experiments, from time to time to find some local unknown wild plants sent to him. There is also a blogger who laughs at him as "a good 'color' of the flowers." He made a poem for his own name: looking for color in his teens, not sensational to Huafa reminder;
Today, he has successfully developed more than 30 color systems, more than 120 colors, more than 300 natural dyed materials, and initially restored the "grass dyeing" process, so he was named the inheritor of this intangible cultural heritage. He was invited by the university to give lectures, was invited to participate in the International Textile Exhibition, and an investor cooperated with him to set up a textile company in Changzhou, specializing in the application of “grass dyeing†technology.
"Because it is pure natural and purely handmade, the price of our products is naturally more expensive, but it is in short supply." Huang Ronghua said, "It is not just the concept of 'non-legacy', but the 'grass dyeing' does have chemical industry. Dyeing unmatched quality."
It gives you a soft, simple, gentle visual enjoyment; it is more related to natural fabrics such as cotton, hemp, silk, cashmere, etc. It is easier to color; it is skin-friendly, nourishing, letting the natural atmosphere embrace you...
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