The first step: test whether the water is leaking.
Before installing the bathtub, first install the water fittings, do the water shut for 24 hours, and see if there is any leakage in the bathtub. Pay special attention to the overflow. It is very difficult to close the water for 24 hours. On the outside of the bathroom, pour two buckets of water and try the water in the bathtub. This is convenient.
When it is actually installed, directly push the bathtub into the bathroom and put it in the water. Because the water level of the faucet left when changing the water is just the width of the bathtub. If the size of the bathtub and the water are not right, it is necessary. Note that the center point of the bathtub should be facing the center of the water mixing, otherwise it will be difficult to see after the mixer is installed.
After the bathtub is lifted into the bathroom, start to install the water and water accessories, fill the bathtub with water, close the water, check for water leakage, and when the water flows over the overflow, the water in the bathtub flows out from the overflow. At this time, I Just kneel on the floor, reach under the bathtub and touch the back of the overflow to see if water leaks from it. After the test of the overflow, the next step is to check the sealing of the water. I chose to stand still and observe the tightness of the water. There was no problem at the beginning. After about 10 minutes, the quiet bathroom was separated by a few seconds. The sound of bubbling in the water, the installation of the water was not sealed, there was leakage, and it was decided to let the water be reinstalled.
This time I found the problem. The original copper pipe under the blisters, there was a sand hole in a certain part, and we were tossed several times and leaked. There is a bit of luck here. I put the bathtub into the bathroom from the beginning. When I put the water in the experiment, I am not afraid of water. It is also a full tank of water. Under the pressure, the sand hole is pressed, so it will leak. If it is only a small amount. The water, not so much pressure, will not leak at this time. If the skilled hydraulic worker is very impatient with my test, this problem may not be discovered at the time? On the other hand, it is proved from the side that the hardware that is sent is indeed of average quality, and the hardware is still to be bought.
It should be noted that the center point of the width of the bathtub is at the center of the faucet. This point must be thought of when the water is changed at the beginning. The width of the bathtub is 700. 750? 800? Once the water is changed to determine the size of the water, try to buy the bathtub according to this, otherwise It is very difficult to change the size of the mixed water from the wall.
The second step: the leveling of the bathtub.
When placing the bathtub, pay attention to the other end of the water outlet slightly higher than the end of the water outlet, so that the sewage will be poor in the future. This depends on the situation. The bathtub was originally suggested by Xiao Gong. It was observed that the bottom of the bathtub originally left the slope of the drainage. The level was used to level the four sides of the bathtub and then the water was tested. As expected, the water quickly drained. The bathtub maintains a visually beautiful appearance without affecting the drainage effect.
The third step: fill the sand.
Although the cast iron bathtub is strong, its thermal conductivity is very fast. It should be used in Zhonghesha, and it should be laid and tamped at the bottom of the bathtub. Bricklayers also recommend the use of foam. Considering that the foam is not as fluid as river sand, it is suitable to fill all voids. In the process of filling the river sand, how to make the sand not leak into the water pipe is a problem to be solved.
After all the placement work, the water release test is repeated (this step is mainly to ensure that the bathtub is not moved behind to make the water leak). After confirming the correctness, wait for the bricklayer to build the skirt.
The fourth step: check and repair.
A 300mm wide and 400mm hole is left at the drain, and a port is cut according to the size. The waterproof and anticorrosive wood board (thickness 40mm) is cut according to the size, and the calculated number of bricks and the 903 building are arranged on the board. Stick the bricks on the board. Extend the edge of the brick with a sealant and set it on the cabinet
This is to facilitate the maintenance of the bathtub drainage system in the future. When building a bathtub skirt, for aesthetic reasons, all the height of 600 is reserved, and other materials such as mosaics are discarded. The bathtub skirt uses the same brick as the lower part of the wall brick, so that the lower wall brick, the floor tile and the bathtub skirt are all One color, one material, very beautiful.
Step 5: tiling
The tiling of the bathtub skirt does not need to catch the hair. The table with the red brick is built, and a layer of cement mortar is applied on the surface, and then the bricks can be affixed for two days. The tiling is very troublesome, because the ground leaves the slope, and the bathtub It is flat, so every big brick should be polished to different sizes. It can't be polished a lot at a time. It is easy to grind more and it needs to be repeatedly ground. The top edge of the brick should be tucked under the rounded edge of the bathtub so that no positive angle is formed.
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