First, let’s talk about the typical applications. Epoxy grout is ideal for securing and installing medium-to-heavy load machinery, like forging hammers. It provides excellent impact resistance and boasts impressive strength. This makes it a reliable choice for situations where durability and stability are crucial.
Second, the primary purposes of epoxy grout are vast. It's a polymer-based grouting material designed to meet the demands of high precision and heavy loads. This makes it perfect for heavy machinery that experiences significant dynamic and static loads—situations where there’s both pressure and tension involved. You’ll find epoxy grout in industries like steel production, where it supports equipment like forging hammers, rolling mills, and flat grinding machines. In sectors such as fertilizers, paper, and chemicals, it’s used for pumps and motors that may come into contact with corrosive substances.
Epoxy grout is also widely used for secondary grouting of high-vibration machinery like compressors, pumps, punch presses, pulverizers, and ball mills. Its applications extend to base areas of equipment prone to chemical attacks, as well as high-pressure zones such as track foundations and bridge supports. Additionally, it plays a critical role in structural reinforcements like anchor bolting, steel bar planting, and concrete strengthening for building structures, including railings for gantry cranes, heavy forging hammers, and compressor reinforcements.
Third, surface preparation is key. For concrete surfaces exposed to the epoxy grout, remove the top layer to expose a solid base layer. Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of grease. For concrete joints, grind the edges to create a 25mm chamfered edge to increase bonding area. Metal surfaces must be free of rust, meeting SSPC-SP6 standards.
Fourth, consider the molds. They need to be sturdy and properly sealed. Apply a lubricant like grease or wax inside to ease demolding. Leave at least 100mm of space between the grouting side forms and the equipment base, ensuring the formwork is at least 100mm above the base plate. Place a 25mm thick wooden strip at a 45-degree angle along the inner side of the grout to prevent stress concentration.
Fifth, temperature control during construction is vital. Ambient temperatures should ideally range between 5°C and 32°C, with 20°C being optimal. During summer, avoid midday heat by using shade structures if needed. In colder climates, build a heated enclosure to maintain temperatures above 5°C, focusing on midday construction.
Sixth, mixing is essential. Start by blending components A (resin) and B (hardener) in a hand blender at 200-250 rpm for around 3 minutes. Then add component C (filler) to a low-speed, high-power mixer at 15-20 rpm. Mix thoroughly until the aggregate is fully incorporated, which usually takes 5-10 minutes. If the temperature is low, reduce the filler quantity slightly—up to 10kg—to maintain flowability.
Seventh, the grouting method is straightforward. Pour the epoxy grout from one side to the other, avoiding shaking to prevent trapped air. For distances over 1.5m, use a high grouting funnel to take advantage of gravity differential pressure. Grouting should be quick, with each layer thickness controlled between 25mm and 35mm. Bolt holes should have a grouting depth under 1500mm. For larger volumes exceeding 1.8m x 1.8m x 150mm, install foam boards to create expansion joints on the base surface. After final set, remove the surface portion and seal the joint with an epoxy expansion joint.
Eighth, checking compaction is simple. Tap the equipment substrate with a hammer post-grouting. A hollow sound indicates voids, while a resonant tone means the layer is dense.
Ninth, finishing touches include lightening the exposed surface with a spatula before the epoxy sets initially for aesthetic purposes. Once it reaches its final set, remove the mold. Clean tools with water or solvent after construction.
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